Chapter 8: Camino Chronicles
6-5-24 Porto:
We began our day in Lisbon and embarked on an epic driving adventure that took us all the way to Porto. First stop: the charming Montserrat Palace in Sintra, where we dodged the tourist hordes and basked in the palace’s symmetrical beauty and lush gardens. Our lunch break was a gourmet experience at a gas station (yes, we fancy like that), and then we attempted a quick visit to Coimbra. Spoiler: it didn’t go as planned—parking was impossible, and Nicky’s urgent need for a restroom added to the chaos. Graduation week had the university area buzzing like a beehive. Finally, we made it to Porto and enjoyed a serene sunset stroll along the riverfront, capping off our day with a delightful dinner. The highlight was definitely Montserrat’s picturesque palace, but the low point was Nicky’s bathroom saga. Through it all, we learned that even the longest drives have their perks—like unexpected sandwich delights!
7-5-24 Porto:
Our adventure in Porto continued with a wine-soaked escapade through the stunning Douro Valley. We kicked off our day bright and early, joining a wine tour that whisked us away at 9 AM. Our first stop featured a picturesque winery, complete with wine tasting and a delightful spread of olive tapenade, jams, and breads. Following this, we enjoyed a serene hour-long cruise along the Douro River, soaking in the breathtaking views. Lunch was a delicious affair with fish and more wine, prepping us for the second winery—a port haven where we indulged in yet more tastings, accompanied by jams and cheese. The highlight? A charming hostess who made us feel like extras in *Under the Tuscan Sun*. After our wine-filled escapade, we strolled back to Porto, enjoying the perfect weather and waterfront views before capping the day with sushi. The only hiccup was the early start, but who can complain when the day is this delightful?
8-5-24 Porto:
Our last full day in Portugal saw us exploring the heart of Porto. We started at the top of the city and meandered downhill through charming streets, stopping to shop and marvel at the sights. Highlights included a visit to a stunning old library, a peek at some ornate churches, and surprisingly, the world's fanciest McDonald's where we indulged in some very classy chicken nuggets. We crossed a bridge designed by the same genius behind the Eiffel Tower and covered over 20,000 steps, thoroughly earning our lunch at a touristy spot with so-so food. The weather was delightfully warm, perfect for our evening stroll along the waterfront. With no real lowlights, except maybe feeling a bit hot and underwhelmed by lunch, the day was a fantastic mix of culture, architecture, and a side of soccer during dinner.
9-5-24 Santiago de Compostela:
We bid farewell to Porto and embarked on a scenic drive to Santiago de Compostela, kicking off with a stop in Vigo for a beachside lunch that turned sunny just in time. With Ben at the wheel first and Nicky taking over the second leg, we reached Santiago and settled into our hotel before diving into the old town. Our evening was a whirlwind of cathedrals, bustling streets filled with pilgrims, and a surprise festival complete with food stalls and traditional dancing that looked hilariously like Irish step dancing. Dinner was an epic feast where we hilariously over-ordered, expecting tapas-sized portions but receiving full meals instead. The night ended on a high note with a vibrant musical performance in the square, blending modern pop with traditional tunes, and a joyful crowd that made us feel like part of the celebration.
10-5-24 Santiago de Compostela:
Today in Santiago de Compostela, we enjoyed a leisurely day as we geared up for our Camino walk. The morning saw us wandering the town, grabbing breakfast, and picking up supplies, with the lively festival still adding an electric buzz to the air. We spent a blissful chunk of the day lounging in the park, noses buried in books, relishing the tranquility. Dinner was a delightful tapas affair, topped off with Ben indulging in fairy floss at the fairgrounds. Despite the city's charm, our peaceful moments were occasionally interrupted by the not-so-soothing symphony of construction work near our hotel, making it sound like a team of overzealous woodpeckers had moved in next door. But even with the unexpected soundtrack, the day's relaxed vibe and good conversations left us content and ready for our next adventure.
11-5-24 Sarria:
Today, we bid farewell to Santiago and geared up for our Camino adventure. After a final supply run and a drive to Lugo (with Nicky skillfully at the wheel), we discreetly returned our rental car, blissfully unnoticed scratches and all. We then took a taxi to Sarria, a quaint little town brimming with fellow pilgrims. The day was a mix of relaxation and preparation: strolling through town, enjoying lunch, and getting our Camino passports. Dinner was a highlight, with great food, lively company, and Ben showing off his French skills. With our bellies full and our spirits high, we settled in for some evening reading, ready for the journey ahead. Despite a looming rainy forecast, our excitement for the Camino remains undampened.
12-5-24 Portomarin:
Today marked the start of our Camino adventure as we hiked from Sarria to Portomarín. Rising early, we set off on a 22 km trek through charming villages and scenic countryside, clocking in 30,000 steps and smashing our personal best. The weather played nice, staying dry with just enough chill to keep us moving briskly. Despite Ben shouldering the day pack like a mule (thanks to our nifty luggage porter service), we made it to Portomarín by early afternoon. Post-walk, we basked in the sun, indulging in some much-needed relaxation. Dinner was a minor saga, with a hangry wait for the kitchen to open, but we were soon sated with burgers. Nicky’s minor toe blister and Ben’s shoulder strain aside, the day was a delightful change of pace, filled with friendly fellow pilgrims and clear yellow trail markers. Ben even managed to "acquire" a hiking stick, though not without a bit of unintentional pilfering. All in all, a fantastic start to our pilgrimage!
13-5-24 Palas de Rei:
Today, we tackled a soggy leg of the Camino, blitzing through 24 kilometers from Portomarín to Palas de Rei in a bid to outrun the forecasted afternoon downpour. Armed with an early start and a hearty breakfast, we marched through picturesque countryside, setting a brisk pace in the gloomy weather. Just as we paused for a Spanish tortilla, the skies opened, dousing us for the final hour of our trek. Our rain gear proved more decorative than functional, but Nicky bravely powered through while Ben bore the brunt of the baggage. Safely arriving at our cozy, heater-equipped haven, we dried off, rested sore muscles, and indulged in dinner provisions, bracing ourselves for more rain in the days ahead. Despite the soggy finish, our spirits remained surprisingly buoyant, thanks to the camaraderie and sense of adventure.
14-5-24 Arzua:
Today, we faced off against the rain again, setting out optimistically from Palas de Rei only to be promptly drenched. After a tactical retreat to our apartment, we made another go of it mid-morning, managing a respectable 15 kilometers before another deluge forced us into a lunch break. As the rain played a relentless game of peekaboo, we decided to taxi the rest of the way to Arzúa, prioritizing dry clothes and sanity over purist pilgrim points. Ben’s knee and back, bearing the load of our gear, staged a mutiny, while Nicky remained upbeat and speedy despite the weather. A highlight was scoring 26-cent karma at dinner after catching a billing error and making things right. We ended the day with new rain pants and a resolve to keep our spirits (and clothes) as dry as possible for the remaining trek.
15-5-24 O Pedrouzo:
Today on the Camino, we caught a lucky break from the relentless rain, allowing us to enjoy a 20-kilometer trek from Arzúa to O Pedrouzo. We started our day with a chaotic breakfast scramble at the hotel, dodging elbows and battling for coffee. Despite the grey skies, we powered through the morning, taking a fortuitous lunch break just as the heavens opened. Ben's knee was acting like a grumpy old man, while Nicky channeled her inner speed demon, even taking on the pack-carrying duties. We arrived at our eco-chic hotel, built with sustainable pine and cork, which delighted Nicky’s inner architect. Exhausted, we opted for a cozy dinner in the hotel's restaurant and topped off the night with an impromptu screening of "8 Mile," because nothing says pilgrimage like Eminem. The highlight was definitely our unique and beautiful lodgings, while the lowlight was Ben’s knee making him feel like an ancient pilgrim.
16-5-24 Santiago de Compostela:
Today marked the final stretch of our Camino de Santiago journey, culminating in our arrival in Santiago de Compostela. We set out from O Pedrouzo with mixed emotions, knowing it was our last day of walking. Despite Ben's knee giving him a bit of trouble, we persevered, taking it slow and savoring every step. Nicky, aka the bag-carrying champion, once again proved her strength as she effortlessly toted our gear, prompting Ben's humble acknowledgment of her prowess. Along the way, we indulged in morning tea breaks and cheesecake pit stops, fortifying ourselves for the final leg. A brief rain shower tried to dampen our spirits, but our fancy rain pants saved the day. Arriving in Santiago, we reveled in the sense of accomplishment, basking in the familiarity of our hotel and the bustling atmosphere of the cathedral square. Despite a few aches and pains, we couldn't help but feel proud of our journey and eagerly looked forward to the next adventure, with Nicky already eyeing Barcelona as our next destination.
